How to Build a Wood Fence: A Step-by-Step Guide

A wood fence is bigger than most weekend projects, but it’s well within reach if you break it into stages: planning, setting posts, then hanging rails and pickets. Most of the quality is decided before the first picket goes up. Straight, plumb, properly set posts make everything after them easy. This guide covers a standard 6-foot privacy fence built in 8-foot sections.

Quick answer: Confirm property lines and local rules, and call your utility locate service before digging. Run a string line, space posts no more than 8 feet apart on center, and dig holes about a third of the post’s above-ground height deep and below your frost line, with gravel at the bottom. Set posts plumb in concrete and let it cure. Attach two or three 2x4 rails per section, then pickets with a spacer block, checking level as you go. Brace gates diagonally, and finish the wood once it’s dry enough.

Project Overview

Detail	Estimate
Difficulty	Intermediate (heavy, physical work)
Time	Posts: a day or two plus curing; rails and pickets: about a day per 50–100 ft with help
Crew	Two people make post setting much easier
Main costs	Posts, rails, pickets, concrete, fasteners, gate hardware; tool rental for an auger

Step 1: Check Rules and Property Lines

• Property line: find your survey pins or plat, or hire a surveyor if unsure. Building even a few inches over a line can cause disputes.
• Permits and height limits: many towns limit fence height (often lower in front yards) and require permits.
• HOA rules: styles, colors and which side faces out are often regulated.
• Neighbors: a conversation now avoids problems later. Many areas expect the finished side to face outward.
• Utilities: in the US, call 811 a few days before digging to have buried lines marked. It’s free.

Materials and Quantities

Item	Typical choice	Quantity (per 8-ft section)
Posts	4x4 pressure-treated rated for ground contact, 8 ft long	1 per section, plus 1 at each end, corner and gate
Rails	2x4 pressure-treated, 8 ft	3 for a 6-ft fence (top, middle, bottom)
Pickets	1x6 cedar or pressure-treated, 6 ft	About 17 with no gaps; fewer with gaps
Concrete	Fast-setting or standard concrete mix	Often 1–2 bags per post, depending on hole size
Gravel	Crushed stone	A few inches under each post
Fasteners	Hot-dip galvanized or stainless screws or ring-shank nails	Rated for treated lumber

Wood choice: pressure-treated lumber rated for ground contact is standard for posts. Cedar pickets resist rot naturally and look better when left exposed, so a common combination is treated posts and rails with cedar pickets. Use fasteners rated for contact with treated wood; uncoated steel corrodes quickly.

Tools

• Post-hole digger or rented power auger
• Digging bar for rocks and roots
• String line, stakes, line level, tape measure
• 4-ft level and post level
• Circular saw, drill/driver or impact driver, speed square
• Wheelbarrow, shovel, scrap lumber for bracing
• Gloves, eye and hearing protection

Step 2: Lay Out the Fence Line

Drive stakes at the ends and corners and run a tight string between them, a few inches off the ground. Mark post locations along the string, no more than 8 feet apart on center; closer spacing makes a stronger fence and reduces rail sag. Adjust spacing so sections come out even, and plan gate openings now (gate width plus room for hinges and latch).

Slopes: decide early between a stepped fence (level sections that step down) and a racked fence (rails and pickets follow the slope).

Style	Looks	Best for
Stepped	Level, formal sections with gaps under each step	Gentle, even slopes; prefab panels
Racked	Follows the ground smoothly	Rolling ground; picket-by-picket builds

Step 3: Dig the Holes

• Depth: about a third of the post’s above-ground height, so roughly 2–3 feet for a 6-foot fence, and deeper than your local frost line where the ground freezes.
• Diameter: about three times the post width (around 10–12 inches for a 4x4).
• Add 3–4 inches of gravel at the bottom and tamp it for drainage.

In rocky soil, a digging bar breaks up stones; if a spot hits solid rock, shifting the post a few inches is usually faster than fighting it.

Step 4: Set the Posts

1. Set the end and corner posts first. Place each on the gravel and check plumb on two adjacent faces.
2. Brace each post with two scrap boards staked at angles.
3. Fill with concrete per the bag instructions, leaving the top slightly domed so water runs away from the post.
4. Run a second string between end posts at the top-of-post height, and set line posts to it.
5. Let the concrete cure as the product directs before loading posts with rails; many fast-setting mixes allow light work within hours but gain strength over several days.

Posts can be cut to final height after setting, using a line to mark them all evenly.

Step 5: Attach the Rails

Install the top and bottom rails (and a middle rail for 6-foot fences) between posts. Keep the bottom rail a few inches above ground so it stays dry. Rails can sit on the face of the posts or between them using galvanized rail brackets. Check that each rail is level (or follows the slope on a racked fence) before fastening. Stagger rail joints on alternate posts for strength if rails span more than one section.

Step 6: Attach the Pickets

Start at one end with a plumb picket. Use a scrap block as a spacer for consistent gaps, or butt pickets tight for full privacy (wood shrinks, so small gaps may appear). Keep the bottom of pickets an inch or two above the soil to limit rot. Check plumb every few pickets, and run a string along the tops to keep the line straight. Fasten each picket with two fasteners at each rail.

Step 7: Build and Hang the Gate

• Set gate posts deeper and with extra concrete; they carry the most load.
• Build a rectangular frame with a diagonal brace running from the bottom hinge side up to the top latch side, which keeps the gate from sagging.
• Use heavy-duty hinges rated for the gate’s weight and a self-closing latch.
• Leave about ½ inch between gate and posts for swing and wood movement.

Finishing

Pressure-treated wood often needs to dry for several weeks or more before it accepts stain; cedar can usually be finished sooner. Sprinkle water on the wood: if it soaks in, it’s ready; if it beads, wait. The prep steps in our deck cleaning guide apply to fences too. A penetrating exterior stain with UV protection generally lasts longer than paint on rough fence boards.

Troubleshooting

Problem	Likely cause	Fix
Post leaning	Shallow hole, not braced during curing, soft soil	Reset deeper; brace until cured
Posts heaved after winter	Hole above frost line	Reset below frost depth
Rails sagging	Posts too far apart, undersized rails	Add a post or a support block at mid-span
Wavy top line	No string line on pickets	Trim tops to a string line
Pickets rotting at the bottom	Touching soil	Keep a gap; add a rot board along the bottom
Gate sagging	No diagonal brace or brace installed the wrong way	Brace from bottom hinge side to top latch side

Maintenance

• Check posts yearly for wobble or rot at ground level.
• Re-tighten or replace loose fasteners.
• Refinish every few years, depending on sun and climate.
• Keep plants, soil and mulch away from the bottom of pickets.
• Lubricate gate hinges and adjust latches as the wood moves.

FAQ

How deep should fence posts be?

A common guideline is about a third of the above-ground height, and below the frost line in cold climates. For a 6-foot fence, that’s often 2–3 feet or more. Check local code.

How far apart should fence posts be?

No more than 8 feet on center for most wood fences; 6 feet is stronger and suits heavier pickets.

Should fence posts be set in concrete?

Concrete is the most common method for privacy fences. Some builders use compacted gravel instead for better drainage. Either way, the post must be plumb and firmly set.

Which side of the fence faces the neighbor?

Many local rules or customs call for the finished side facing out. Check your town and HOA rules.